S2000 slave cylinder install

You can also remove it and blow on it to remove any dirt build up. Please contact your dealer for details Another problem with similar symptoms is this A 'flat' spot when starting it after it had been standing for minutes after it had been warmed up.

It refused to respond to the accelerator, kangarooed, jerked and lost ALL power. The solution to this was A corroded wire near the scuttle on the passenger side, which was replaced. Auto Window Function Fails When your battery is disconnected, the auto function on the drivers window can stop working, this is because it then needs to be reset. The car has to be started!! Premature Wearing of Roof A number of cars are suffering with premature roof wear.

There is a guide below with some preventative measures. It seems the arm that is doing the damage can only do so when the hood is right down and it is pressed against the hood.

Operation of the hood and the movement of the car then causes it to rub against the hood and wear through, possible bigger problem for those with hardtops.

My first idea was to add a piece of black gaffa tape at the wear point to protect the hood. Then I made a sleeve to go around the 'elbow' of the frame that seems to cause the problems:- Added velcro hooks down the edge of a piece of black bass box cloth 12 x 14cm and wrapped this around the elbow. Looks OK and covers any rough edges Heavy Clutch For over a year now my clutch has been getting stiffer and stiffer, but initially started as being a slight sticking point when released.

It got to the point where my left leg would ache after a drive, especially when encountering traffic every morning to work along the M1 now. I mentioned it a few times to the dealer over that period and got responses of 1 Will have to take the clutch out to have a look.

Having read in Under the Hood about sticky clutches various people have had Master, Slave cylinders replaced and still have had the same problem. Others have sprayed WD40 into the clutch housing not recommended and problems have gone away for a while, but always come back WD40 doesn't have a high enough temperature range for the job and also dissolves grease!!

And others have managed to re-grease the release fork, pivot and bearing contact point with release fork through the release fork hole in the side of the gearbox using a piece of wire.

With all this in mind and not wanting to pay the dealer to diagnose and hence cost more than is required, I set about systematically solving the problem myself. It was looking pretty black anyway, so needed doing just to eliminate this as a problem.

Still the clutch was stiff. This basically says, remove slave cylinder and pull-out release fork. Grease release fork pivot, release fork which comes into contact with release bearing and release fork to slave cylinder connection point. With grease in hand, slave cylinder removed in 5 mins, and a quick tug on release fork note: release fork will not come out of gearbox!! Using a flashlight and I went So using a piece of wire from a coat hanger I applied grease to the relevent points and attempted to add some to the release bearing guide, but it was very tight and you generally end up doing it blind.

I done the best I could and put everything back together and suddenly I had what felt like a brand new clutch. Smooth action when applying the clutch and releasing, its amazing how such a small thing makes driving easier and more pleasurable yes! The thing was I had the clutch replaced under warranty 54 clutch , so its not just a problem straight from the factory.

Honda know its a problem, hence service bulletin, and my guess is their installation instructions may have been wrong at dealers and factory. Either that or the areas in question get too hot for the grease and it just disappears over time. Whatever you do don't let the dealer fool you into thinking it is something else before this remedy is tried. With ramps etc, it should only take 30 mins to complete.. The other thing to mention is that due to the restricted access it is very difficult to ensure everything gets greased, so at a later date it may need to be done again.

Clonking Suspension Symptons: Suspension making anything between a clicking and a clonking noise at low speeds on rough ground. Solution: There can be many causes of this but the first and cheapest thing you should be looking to do with this problem is retorquing the suspension bolts.

My dealer did this for free, and it's a good thing to rule out before playing with dampers etc Squeaking Dashboard Symptoms: A very annoying squeek that has been compared to having a mouse in the dashboard! Solution: Check and oil the bonnet catch and also check the rear view mirror. Puddle in Passenger Footwell There is a pipe connected to the bottom of the aircon unit in the passenger footwell that takes the condensation out the car and drops it on the road.

This can become disconnected probably kicked off , takes 15 seconds to replace and problem solved. Get yourselves down your local fish tank stockist and ask from some Fish tank tubing.

I had to buy a whole metre. Basically you only need about 2cms of the stuff. All you need to do is slip this over the small metal knobbly bit technical jargon that protrudes from the striker the part that is fixed to the roof quite difficult to explain really, but if you look at it, you will see where I mean.

This simply prevents a metal to metal contact, the small about of plastic is just enough to tighten up the seal. These clutches can be replaced by the clutch under warranty. Locking Wheel nuts Make sure these are removed and greased every six months to avoid seizing Gearbox It is not unheard of for Ss to have gearbox problems, especially with the syncromesh in the higher gears.

Honda's fix for this is usually a new gearbox. Annoying 04 Headlamp Washers MY04 cars come with the fantastic feature that means the headlamp washers come on when you clean the windscreen, causing the passengers to get a soaking! There is a bulletin that covers the change from model year. The symptom it corrects is when you activate the screen washers, the headlamp washers also work, irrespective of whether the headlamps are on or not.

Only certain chassis ranges are afftected and the fix is customer complaint only and only for the duration of the manufacturers waranty. If the sympton is one you are experiencing and your car is still under warranty, ask your dealer to look up bulletin HUK dated This bulletin does not apply for 05 model year on as they are already modified. When you press the windscreen washer on an 04 it also activates your headlamp washers - brilliant To disable the headlamp washers on all models follow these instructions stolen from Frenchie!

Open up the bonnet. Look up by the windscreen on the passenger side; there's a black box about 6" x 3" with its top just below the level of the wing, between the battery and the wing. Squeeze the ends of the box to free the clips and lift off the top. Earlier this year I revealed my latest project : A Honda S with over , miles on the odometer.

My goal with the car: Turn it into a competent track machine I could drive to and from road courses throughout the Northeast. Upon closer inspection of the VTEC solenoid, the reason became fairly obvious. One of the three bolts that holds the solenoid to the block was straight-up missing.

Or so I thought; once I took the other two bolts out, I realized that whoever had last touched the third bolt had somehow snapped the head off, leaving the remainder of the fastener in the block. Heartbreaking, I know. Also, one of the other two bolts I extracted broke in half as I was threading it out.

My theory? A previous owner saw there was an oil leaking from the solenoid area, but instead of doing the right thing and replacing the gasket, they decided to tighten the bolts in hopes that would stop the leak. As demonstrated by my car, this strategy can cause serious problems down the road.

After fixing the brakes I took the S to its first outing at Lime Rock Park , where it outperformed my expectations. With the transmission properly supported, work it back and away from the engine until it is completely clear, and then lower it. Now that the clutch assembly is exposed, remove the point pressure plate bolts. With the clutch removed, remove the point flywheel bolts.

We had the flywheel resurfaced as it showed wear, but was salvageable enough to not require replacement. Bolt the flywheel back into place using the factory torque recommendations, and use the clutch alignment tool to line up the new components for installation. Bolt the new clutch assembly together with all of the pieces properly aligned. Align the transmission bellhousing with the engine so that the dowel pins and openings line up, and then slide the transmission back into place.

Reinstall the bellhousing bolts and rear transmission mount. Reconnect all electrical connections. Reinstall the clutch slave cylinder. Do not remove support from under the engine until the motor mounts are back in place. Post-Install Notes Since the clutch is new, it may feel a little aggressive or quick to bite.