Replace existing windows

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To learn more or opt-out, read our Cookie Policy. Ready-to-install replacement units give you high performance and good looks with a minimum of fuss. When Maddy Krauss and her husband, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their Shingle-style home, they fell in love with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase.

They were also delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace. The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Old House TV's fall project in Newton, Massachusetts.

Because the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could use insert replacement units—in this case, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with energy-saving, low-e insulated glass.

These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings. When the job was done, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to love about their old house. Here's a look at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows. Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings.

There are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton house—give an old window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash.

The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between. For these to work, the existing window frame must be level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs.

Because you're adding new jambs and liners, the glass area will be slightly smaller than it was before. Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they have a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. Option 2: When you upgraded from a previous version of Windows or receive a new computer preinstalled with Windows 10, what happened is the hardware your PC will get a digital entitlement, where a unique signature of the computer will be stored on Microsoft Activation Servers.

The Windows 7 or Windows 8 genuine license you were previously running will be exchanged for a diagnostics key. Anytime you need to reinstall Windows 10 on that machine, just proceed to reinstall Windows It will automatically reactivate. You will prompted to enter a product key a couple times through the installation, click I don't have a key and Do this later. Go to a working computer, download, create a bootable copy, then perform a clean install. Once your computer is set to boot from the DVD, you should see this option.

If you are installing from a retail Windows 10 USB thumb drive, you will be asked to select either 32 or 64 bit Windows The Windows logo will appear on screen, this might be here for a while, as long as you see the animating dots, everything should be ok. Select your Language, Time and Keyboard method then click Next.

Click Install now Windows 10 setup will prompt you for a product key during installation a couple times. If you have a Windows 10 product key, you can proceed to enter it. Setup will also prompt you to select the edition you have a license for - Home or Pro. Please make sure you choose the right edition. If you choose the wrong edition, your only option will be to perform a clean install again. The copy of Windows 10 you download and upgrade from will correspond with the edition of Windows you have installed, if it does not, this is why you might be experiencing problems activating: Windows 7 Starter, Home Basic, Home Premium, Windows 8.

You might get a driver missing error or something to that effect. If you do, restart setup, but this time, when you arrive at the following screen, disconnect your thumb drive then go through Custom options. When setup is ready copy files, it will prompt you to reconnect the installation source your USB. Select the drive then click New NOTE: If you have multiple partitions listed, select each one starting at the bottom , then click delete until there is only a single one unallocated drive displayed in the window.

Select the unallocated drive listed, click New, click Apply then OK This will split the drive into multiple partitions, select the Primary partition then click Next. NOTE: The System Reserved partition is where recovery files are kept for diagnostics and repairing damaged Windows 10 files; or even reinstall Windows Wait while Windows installs When this phase of setup is complete, Windows will automatically restart then reboot into setup again.

Check the squareness by measuring diagonally across the window. Run your measuring tape from the top left of the frame to the bottom right, and note your measurement. Then measure the frame diagonally from the top right to the bottom left.

If the difference is any larger, consider contacting a professional. Purchase a new window that fits your measurements. Carefully measuring the existing window is the most important step to replacing it.

Bring your measurements to a home improvement store, consult an employee about available window sizes, and buy one that meets your needs. For the easiest and most energy-efficient option, go with vinyl replacement windows with their own self-contained jambs and sashes. Part 2. Remove the inside stop pieces from the sides of the window. Recall that the stops are vertical strips on either side of the window frame. Use a thin pry bar or stiff putty knife to carefully pull them off of the frame.

If caked paint makes the job difficult, use a utility blade to score along the edge of the window frame. If you happen to crack a stop, take a bit of wood filler and mold it onto the damaged part. Let it dry for about 15 minutes, and sand down the filler and the surrounding wood. Then give it a new coat of paint before reattaching to the frame. This should be the matching size, but measure your stop to be sure. Saw the furring strip to match the height of the other stop.

Take the inside sash out of the window frame. Once the inside stops are gone, the lower sash should slip out easily. If your existing window is old, the inside sash might be connected to a weight by a chain or cord. If necessary, cut the chain or cord and let the weight fall down into its well.

Look for nails or screws that secure spring boxes to the sash, and remove any you find. Slide the upper sash down to the bottom portion of the frame. Look for the thin strip of wood at the top of the frame that sits against the upper sash. This is the parting stop; remove it to free the upper sash. Then, pull out the upper sash; if it's a double-hung window, cut any chains or cords that connect it to a weight.

Leave the exterior stops on the window frame. These outside strips are the counterparts to the inside stops, or the strips that you pried off the frame on the interior side of the window.

The exterior stops will help guide the replacement window during installation. Clean up the remaining window frame. Remove any weights and pulleys from their wells on the sides of the window frame. Look for old nails or screws, and remove any you find. Then scrape away old paint and caulk, and patch any holes with an exterior-grade wood filler.

Wait at least 15 minutes for the filler to dry, sand it with grit sandpaper, then paint it to disguise your work. Filler drying times may vary by brand and the depth of your repair, so check your product's specific instructions.

If your window has weight wells, or cavities on the right and left sides, fill them with fiberglass or foam insulation after removing the weights. Check for rotted wood in the window frame. Run a flat-head screwdriver around the frame to probe for rot. If you notice soft spots or crumbing wood, call a professional to replace the window frame.

A replacement window needs to be installed in a solid, rot-free frame, and a rotted frame could be a sign of larger structural problems.

The manufacturer's instructions will explain how the new window should be sized in relation to your window opening. The window unit is usually just slightly undersized to allow for insertion into the opening. If you are uncertain about sizing, consult the window specialist at your home improvement center.

Use a pry bar or putty knife and hammer to carefully pry away the window stop molding from the sides and top of window frame.

Some moldings may be secured with screws. If the molding has been painted in place, slice through the paint with a utility knife before prying it away from the window frame. Careful removal may allow you to reuse the stop moldings after the new insert window is installed. But if the stop moldings are old and brittle, you may find it easiest to simply buy and install new moldings. Carefully remove the inner window sash from the opening, and remove the knotted weight cords from the holes in the sides of the sash frame.

Sometimes, the sash cords are nailed into the sash frames. Use a small pry bar or screwdriver to remove the narrow parting stop moldings that separate the inner window from the outer window sash. These will not be reused, so it's fine to break them in order to free them from the window frame. With the parting stops removed, the outer window should now slide out of the window frame.

Free it from the sash cords by pulling the knots out of their openings on the sides of the sash frame. Open the weight pockets on sides of the window frame and extract the heavy weights. Cut the sash cords with a utility knife, then remove the cords. Unscrew the weight pulleys at the tops of the window frame.

Discard the weights, cords, and pulleys. The metal weights and pulleys can usually be taken to a recycling center; do not discard in household trash. Fill the weight pockets with loosely packed fiberglass insulation.

These empty cavities can be a substantial source of heat loss, so insulating the pockets will greatly improve the energy efficiency of the windows. Replace the covers on the weight pockets and screw them in place. Fit the new insert window with whatever expansion strip or header that is required, then test fit the window in the frame opening and loosely shim it in place.

Use a carpenter's square and torpedo level, as necessary, to adjust the window so it is level and square. Once you are confident the window will fit properly, remove it from the opening, then apply caulk to the window frame as directed by the instructions.

Reinsert the window and adjust it once again for level and plumb, using a framing square and torpedo level. Use shims to lightly wedge the window in place. Test both sashes for smooth sliding. If the sashes are tight, use the adjustment screws located in the side channels to adjust the operation.